This post was published nearly six years ago, but is one I reference frequently so I make it a point to update it at least once a year with my most current thoughts + favorite products as a few things have changed.
*product recommendations updated 1/10/24.
One of the questions I get asked the most is what skincare product to apply, when!? With so many products out there (serum! toner! essence! oils!) layering your skincare products can feel really overwhelming. It doesn’t have to be though, I promise! The general rule is to layer your products from thin to thick; and to apply the products with the highest percentage of active ingredients first so that they are absorbed first. And of course, SPF is the last step. Makeup goes on after SPF!
I’ve talked about product order before in my bedtime skincare routine but today I wanted to break things down in full. I think the biggest “controversial” part of my routine (if skincare routines can be controversial, ha ha) is whether to apply face oil before or after moisturizer. I’ve been taught that facial oil should always be the last step, but if you want to apply it before your moisturizer, do that, no one is stopping you! I say this often, and I’ll say it again: if something works for you, there’s no need to fix it just because of “rules.”
I’ve seen it in my DM’s and reader emails, everyone stresses out about doing things the wrong way. You’re not going to ruin your face because you didn’t follow the recommended product order. The only thing that is truly bad for your skin is using too many actives at night (or skipping SPF during the day). Listen to your skin, experiment to see what works, don’t stress! Pampering should be fun… applying things in a slightly “wrong” order is not going to ruin your life.
I will also caveat that you might not need all of these steps. If you have sensitive skin or oily skin for example, you’re probably not going to want to do all of these serums and oils. I have dry skin, so share what works best for me. My biggest concerns are hydration, dullness, and anti-aging… tackling those fine lines and wrinkles!
Obviously this is the first step. But I included it because if you are doing a double cleanse (more on that here),you should use the creamy/oil cleanser first. I love a good cleansing oil or balm… the one I use transforms washing my face into a luxurious spa treatment. Elemis is my favorite here (smells so good!), and Farmacy is a close second. These are frequently applied to dry skin and the point is to use that rich cleanser to get your makeup off, and then use a gel cleanser (this one is my favorite) to get your skin extra clean.
If you are doing a face scrub, that’s the last part of your cleansing process. This is my favorite scrub! It combines physical + chemical exfoliants and is super effective without irritating/tearing the skin. Note: if you do a scrub, don’t do retinol, acid, etc. after. Keep it simple!
For the longest time, I didn’t think toner was necessary but recently changed my position. Toner should be the last step of your cleansing routine. If you use a toner, this is where you do it. Pat skin dry and apply all over with a cotton pad. This toner is my personal favorite! I wrote more about toners and why you need one in this post. I also really like P50.
The next step is your essence. Whereas toner is the last step of cleansing, essence is the first step of skincare. (If you use it – you can read about my love of SK-II in this post.) I apply my essence (Right now my favorite essence is actually Rhode’s glazing milk – it’s super hydrating and makes you GLOW. If I do the Biossance toner or P50, I like a really hydrating essence afterward.
*A note about: P50 is very very active and I consider it an acid, not an essence. I recommend only using at night, and if you do use it before bed don’t use other actives (retinol, Vit C, etc). Just moisturize. You could do a gentle serum like hyaluronic acid (this is my current favorite HA serum – it’s also wildly affordable!), but you don’t want to do much else. Also, re: P50, Helena did a great review of it!
I wrote a longer post about the difference between essence and toner; highly recommend reading that if you are at all confused!
If you use an eye cream or a neck cream, this is when I like to apply these. Caroline Hirons has drilled it into my head (read her book, it’s amazing!) that eye cream goes on before everything else. The eye area is so delicate; you want to just pat it on very gently. I do a little extra patting around my crows feet and fine lines. For eye cream, this one from Strivectin is my current favorite. It pretty much just does everything. This one from Biossance is also very good. (Plus it’s clean and less expensive).
Serum is the next step. The way you want to think of your product order is that you want to apply the ingredients with the highest concentration of active ingredients first, so that they’re closest to the skin and absorbed first. Essence is packed with actives, as is serum. But because essence is less viscous (it’s consistency is like water), you want to apply that first. I use a bunch of different serums/actives. Below is a loose guide to my favs and how often I use them.
Also: this is my favorite hydrating serum. You can use it before any of these (or Vitamin C serum in the morning). It delivers a long lasting shot of lasting hydration… and it has a nice little plumping effect too!
Obviously Bader is king (for me) and yesI use it over my serums!
My second to last step is always my moisturizer. I love a thick, velvety moisturizer. This one from Sobel Skin (refer to this post for a more in depth review of that!) is equally thick and creamy if you don’t want to fork over for Bader. I also really love the U Beauty Super Hydrator.
This is when I’d apply any spot treatments (like pimple cream, etc!) I have dry skin so rarely break out but when I do, it’s an explosion. This is my go-to fix!
The last step in your routine should be face oil (at night) or SPF (day).
Oil is what seals it all in! I like to let everything I’ve applied sink in for a minute or two while I brush my teeth, and then gently pat on my oils. I love to warm my facial oil up in my palms and then push it into my skin. For me, oils are saved for nighttime as after serum AND moisturizer I’m already pretty shiny, but I really like to lock in all that moisture. My favorite is either the Biossance Rose Oil or Everyday Oil and sometimes if I am feeling really extra I will do Vintner’s Daughter over Dr. Bader. Yes, that’s one very expensive skincare routine but it’s an incredible combo.
For SPF right now I am a massive fan of Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen! It is the best. I love it so much as sunscreen can bug me a bit (so many formulas feel very heavy and make my skin feel claustrophic?) but this is matte and feels like nothing. Highly recommend. I haven’t tried it but I have heard that Trader Joe’s has a great dupe.
Disclosure: If you buy something through my links, I may earn an affiliate commission, at no cost to you. I only feature things I truly love here. Thanks for your support.
Table of Contents:
The Basics of Any Skin Care Routine
How to Layer Your Skin Care Products
Your Daytime Skin Care Routine
Your Nighttime Skin Care Routine
Skin Care Routine Steps
Establishing a proper skin care routine order is important in understanding your skin care concerns and how to best deal with them when using the proper skin care products. With so many different types of skin care products, it can be difficult to understand what each of them does and how/when to apply them to your skin for best results. It's also important to note that there's a difference between a morning skin care routine order, and a night time skin care routine order. In order for you to get the best results out of your skin care products, we asked dermatologist to help Dermstore establish the proper way in which to apply skin care products and how to establish a proper skin care routine in order to get that glowing skin we all want.
Read on for the details or view our infographic on a morning vs night time skin care routine order: The Best Order for Your Skin Care Products
Why the Order of Your Skin Care Routine Matters
According to Dr. Heather Rogers, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon, applying your skin care products in the proper order ensures that your skin receives the full benefits of each product.
"The order of application is incredibly important," says Dr. Rogers. "The skin’s job is to keep things out, but many of the skin care products we use have ingredients we want to get in. Only a very small amount of these key ingredients can penetrate the skin, even when perfectly formulated and perfectly applied. If you don’t apply products in the correct order, you will not see the best results from your skin care regimen."
The Basics of Any Skin Care Routine
Aside from the order of application, some experts believe it’s also important to consider the time it takes for your skin to absorb your products. However, since most of us are often in a rush to get somewhere (or hit the sack), Dr. Rogers understands that this isn’t always possible. Her advice? Keep your skin care routine simple.
“Many products say you have to wait anywhere from five to 30 minutes before the next step to ensure proper absorption, but who has time for that? If you make it too complicated, you just won’t do it,” says Dr. Rogers. “If you have many steps, pause for a bit (a minute) to allow each product time to react with the skin. For example, at night, after I wash my face and apply my serum or evening treatment, I just wrap up my day and get into bed. I keep my moisturizer on my bedside table and apply it right before I go to sleep to give these typically expensive, specialty treatments a touch more time to penetrate the skin before I seal them in with my cream.”
Another piece of advice? Listen to your skin. Remember that you are unique and that nobody else has your skin. No matter what experts say, it’s important to find what works for you and always be kind to your skin.
How to Layer Your Skin Care Products, Plus Why Order Matters
So which product goes on top of what, you ask? An easy rule of thumb to follow is to apply your products with the thinnest consistency to thickest, or from liquid to cream. "In general, think thin-to-thick, but you also want to first use the products with the ingredients that are most important to penetrate into the skin (like antioxidants in serums) and finish with the products that need to sit on top of the skin (like emollients and humectants in moisturizers)," says Dr. Rogers.
Your Daytime Skin Care Routine: A Step-by-Step Guide
The morning routine is all about protection from the sun, pollution and the elements, according to Dr. Rogers, so leave your peel pads and treatment products, like retinol, for night.
STEP 1: CLEANSER
In the morning, start by splashing your face with warm water or, if you must, wash with a gentle face cleanser designed for your skin type.
Learn more: The Different Types of Face Cleansers, Decoded
STEP 2: TONER
Most people choose to skip toners, partly because there's a lingering assumption that most toners are harsh and irritate the skin. Fortunately, that's not the case anymore. While they don't physically "shrink" pores, the new breed of toners can serve multiple purposes, like act as a delivery system for antioxidants, vitamin-B derivatives and even toning acids. Additionally, each type of toner is intended for a different skin issue, so it's important to use the right kind for your skin concern.
However, if you have lived all your life without using a toner and your skin looks healthy, Dr. Rogers says there is no need to start using one. "Toners were created to help return the skin’s pH after it became too basic from harsh soaps,” explains Dr. Rogers. “Face cleansers are now so much better balanced that toners are not a required step for me.” That said, if you have a toner that you like using, there's no harm in sticking with it.
Learn more: The Best Toners for Oily and Combination Skin
STEP 3: ANTIOXIDANT SERUM
Serums are super-concentrated, nutrient-dense treatments that address specific concerns, so it’s better to keep them as close to the skin as possible. There are various serums available on the market today, but for daytime, Dr. Rogers recommends antioxidant serums, which provide a variety of benefits---from blunting your skin’s inflammatory response to neutralizing damage from UV rays and environmental pollutants.
Learn more: Antioxidants in Skin Care: How Do They Work and Which Ones Are the Best?
STEP 4: EYE CREAM
According to Dr. Annie Chiu, a board-certified dermatologist, it’s vital to apply an eye cream at least every night—if not twice a day—starting in your 20s. “It’s about maintaining the health and thickness of the eyelid skin. Improving the skin quality in this area early on ensures that the eyelid skin does not easily lose laxity and its smooth appearance later on."
For best results, consistency is key. “Regular use of eye cream over time will keep the eyelid skin elastic and can improve or prevent against some fine lines or collagen loss. Remember: Nothing is magic. Results don’t occur overnight,” Dr. Chiu adds. “You can further protect the delicate skin around your eyes by choosing an eye cream with SPF or applying sunscreen every day.” Dr. Chiu also advises people to remember to wear sunglasses when outside to protect against UV-light damage and lines that can creep up around the corners of your eyes from squinting.
Learn more: The Best Eye Creams for Your Under-Eye Concerns
STEP 5: SPOT TREATMENT
According to Dr. Diane De Fiori, a dermatologist at Rosacea Treatment Clinic, prescription medications and acne spot treatments need to be applied as close to the skin as possible to maximize their benefits.
As acne spot treatments differ in active ingredients, check your product packaging or consult your dermatologist for the best way to apply it. Prescription-strength benzoyl peroxide, a common acne spot-treatment ingredient, has a one-to-three-hour working time, according to esthetician and acne specialist Ashley Wiley. “Any cream that comes in contact with it before it has completed its work will likely inhibit the active ingredient from working properly.”
Remember that acne spot treatments can dry out your skin, so always apply only on spots where you need it.
Learn more: The Best Products to Get Rid of Pimples, FAST
STEP 6: MOISTURIZER
Yes, everyone needs a moisturizer, even if you have oily skin. "Even though your body has its own natural lubricating system consisting of glands that secrete oil (or sebum) to maintain a protective coating against harsh outside conditions and infections, most of us do need extra hydration after the havoc that sun, weather and harsh chemicals wreak on our skin," explains Dr. Sandra Kopp, a board-certified dermatologist.
Most experts recommend that the best time to apply a moisturizer is while the skin is still damp, so the sooner you go through applying your serum and treatment, the sooner you’re able to lock in much-needed hydration with your moisturizer.
If you’re using an acne spot treatment, you may want to skip those areas when applying your moisturizer to make sure the ingredients in it won’t interfere with the active ingredients in your spot treatment.
Learn more: The Best Moisturizers for Your Skin Type
Step 7: SUNSCREEN
Sunscreen should be the last step in your daytime skin care routine if you’re using a physical or mineral sunscreen, which works by physically blocking UV rays. This step becomes tricky when you’re using a chemical sunscreen.
Dr. Rogers explains: “Chemical sunscreens have to be absorbed into the skin to be effective, so applying after your moisturizer will delay and hinder that. However, if you apply your chemical sunscreen before your moisturizer, your moisturizer will not work as well either because the skin is coated with chemical sunscreen.”
To get around this, Dr. Rogers recommends using a physical sunscreen with zinc and to apply it after your moisturizer. “Zinc is safe, effective and provides the broadest protection against UVA and UVB rays.”
As for those who like using chemical sunscreens, try to look for a formula that offers moisturizing benefits, so you can get your daily hydration needs while protecting your skin.
Learn more: 12 Face Sunscreens So Good, You'll Want to Wear Them Every Day
Your Nighttime Skin Care Routine: A Step-by-Step Guide
As your skin naturally repairs itself at night, your nighttime routine should be all about treatment and giving your skin what it needs, says Dr. Rogers. “If your skin is looking dull, exfoliate. If it is irritated, hydrate and protect.” Here’s the best order of skin care products to make sure you get the most out of them:
STEP 1: (DOUBLE) CLEANSER
To get rid of the day’s grime, dirt, oil and makeup, some experts recommend removing your makeup first with a dedicated makeup remover before washing your face with a gentle cleanser. Better yet, try double cleansing, which involves using a cleansing oil first to dissolve your makeup and then washing your face again with your regular cleanser.
STEP 2: TONERS, ESSENCES AND BOOSTERS
If you use a toner, apply it as you would in the morning.
At night, some people also like to layer various types of skin care boosters, which you’ll see as either mists, essences, beauty waters or hydrating (hyaluronic acid) serums. These are infused with different active ingredients, but for the most part, the purpose is mainly to hydrate and nourish skin.
Since these are lightweight, almost water-like formulas; apply them after washing your face as you would a toner. “If using both, apply toner then essence,” says Dr. Rogers. “Toner is more to clean and essence is more about delivering a treatment.” If using multiple boosters, the same rules apply: apply from thinnest to thickest.
Learn more: What Are Essence, Toner, Ampoules and Beauty Water?
STEP 3: EYE CREAM
Aside from addressing crow’s feet and dark circles, eye creams can also serve to protect your delicate eye area from your other skin care products.
“Generally, you’d want to apply your eye cream before your treatments to protect your eye area against potent ingredients, which could potentially cause irritation,” according to Dr. Rogers.
Learn more: The Best Eye Creams for Your Under-Eye Concerns
STEP 4: TREATMENTS, SERUMS AND PEELS
Like the rest of the body, skin does the bulk of its repairing, restoring and regenerating as we sleep. This is why most targeted skin care treatments—like prescription meds (tretinoin, acne and rosacea creams), retinol creams, exfoliating treatments (peel pads and masks) and anti-aging serums (infused with peptides, growth factors and other biologically active ingredients)—are better used at night. However, instead of layering up all your treatment serums and creams, Dr. Rogers suggests choosing your evening treatment depending on your skin’s of-the-moment needs.
“Too many steps just increase the risk of irritation and decrease the likelihood of the desired result,” says Dr. Rogers. “Pick your evening treatment based on what your skin needs that night, not based on what you have in your medicine cabinet. Some nights, it may be just wash, moisturize and bed. There is always tomorrow to give your skin more love.”
Here are other considerations:
Learn more: How to Pick the Best Retinol Cream and Serum for You
STEP 5: MOISTURIZER OR NIGHT CREAM
Some people use the same moisturizer for day and night. However, night moisturizers or night creams are generally thicker and heavier and designed to be absorbed over the course of several hours.
“Moisturizer, particularly the heavier ones used at night, create a protective coating on the skin to prevent water evaporation while you sleep,” says Dr. Rogers. “Maintaining a high water content in the skin is key for healing and maintaining healthy skin. If you are using the right moisturizer, it should be your last step because nothing is going to get through it.” If your skin is on the dry side, you may want to add a face oil before applying your night cream.
Learn more: The Best Moisturizers for Your Skin Type
Skin Care Routine Steps
Need a quick reference on how to go about your skin care routine? Check out our ultimate cheat sheet below.