Contour kits are great! They come with instructions (for people who prefer paper to YouTube), they're portable (for people who carry their entire lives in their purses), and they usually have soap opera names like 'The Bronzed and The Beautiful' or 'Days of Our Lines' (for people who were babysitters in 1989). But they're also completely unnecessary. There's a 99.3% chance you already own everything that's in a palette, and the shades you have right now are probably better suited to your skin anyway. Which is why you might consider assembling your own collection of contour accoutrements. You only need four “ingredients,” plus your usual base or tinted moisturizer. Here's a rundown of DIY kit basics, plus good substitutes if you don't have a ton of bronzer lying around:
1. Highlighter
Highlighter is like an instant nap/yoga class. It makes any area you apply it to look brighter and more prominent, which is why people love putting it around their eyes, on their cheekbones, and in the cupid's bow of their lips to create more fullness.
Pictured: It Cosmetics Hello Light Anti-Aging Luminizing Creme Stick is a favorite because the formula is hydrating, it doesn't sink into fine lines, and the luminizing particles are small, so you just look extremely healthy, not covered in a weird glitter film or something.
But you can also use: Your favorite light, shimmery eyeshadow—whichever one makes you look most awake when you put it on is probably the one you want for this. White shimmer is good for looking ethereal, but don't count out pink and gold shadows. If you have a bunch of options, dust a few on your hand and then choose whichever shade makes your skin look pretty without being too obvious. Oh, and great as glitter shadow is on eyes, stick to shimmer for the rest of your face unless your official look for Spring 2014 is Burning Man Elfin Princess Chic.
2. Bronzer
The yin to highlighter's yang. It's dark and shadow-creating, which is the other half of contouring. Shimmer is also good here, since it generates that much-coveted “glow' thing, but not necessary. Mainly, it should be dark—but not so dark that you can't blend it in—and have a terracotta, golden brown, or puce (terrible name, great hue!) base. Just stay away from colors that are grey-tinged; they make everyone look sickly.
Pictured: RMS Buriti Bronzer, which is sheer but highly pigmented and has a healthy dose of gold-brown flecks. It's coconut oil-based, too—great if you're sensitive to bismuth oxychloride or other chemical ingredients that are common in bronzers.
But you can also use: Cocoa or taupe eyeshadow is the classic substitute, but lipstick that's anywhere from copper to raisin can also work. The shade you choose should depend on your skin tone and what you you already know looks good on you. As a general rule, though, if you're warm-toned (which is almost everyone), go with an orange brown. If you're cool-toned, purple browns look great in an I'm-a-hot-vampire way.
3. Blush
Blush is...blush. It's basic, but really comes into its own when you're highlighting, since it makes the transition point between highlighted areas and bronzed areas (aka your cheeks) look soft and natural.
Pictured: Ilia Multi-Stick in Tenderly. It's slightly shimmery and light enough to brighten, so if you want to skip using highlighter on your cheeks you can. Plus, the ingredients are 85% organic and there are no synthetic dyes, which are an allergen for some people.
But you can also use: Sub in your favorite daytime lipstick by dabbing three dots along the tops of your cheeks and blending it out to your temples. Or grab a pan of eyeshadow in soft orange (warm undertones) or baby pink (cool undertones) and use it just like you would regular blush—the formulas are often almost exactly the same.
4. Brightening Powder or Cream
This is usually either a matte powder or concealer-type formula that goes under your eyes, across your forehead, and anywhere else that should be highlighted without being shiny.
Pictured: RMS Un Coverup, which is easy to blend and translucent enough to look natural.
But you can also use: Pressed powder (Make Up For Ever HD Powder is great), or a any concealer you like that's one shade above your skin tone.
Photos by Lacey Gattis.
Contouring and highlighting trends may have evolved over the years, but the basic principles still apply and are as relevant right now as ever. From soft definition to chiseled cheekbones, how you choose to contour and highlight is going to be down to your personal preferences too. Get the basics down with our guide on how to contour and highlight for your face shape using our mineral makeup collections.
A great way to learn how to contour and highlight like a pro and create a look that's right for you, is by letting your face shape be your guide.
First up, let's define what we mean by contour and highlight. There are new phrases popping up left and right (non-touring, anyone?) so it’s important to speak the lingo. These are the top words in contouring vocabulary:
Contouring and highlighting use shade and light to add dimension and definition to the high and low points of the face. Contour areas that you'd like to appear more defined, and then highlight areas you'd like to stand out. Typically contouring takes place on the lower points such as the hairline, jawline, and below the cheekbones, while highlighting sweeps across the higher points such as the brow bone, bridge of the nose, chin, and tops of the cheekbones.
Strobing is all about ultra-highlighted skin and was more popular several years back. You can achieve a shimmering, luminescent highlight using the Contour Kit, Shimmer Brick, Skin Glow Powder Highlighter, or Skin Glow Stick Highlighter.
Non-touring is a soft, natural contour and highlight paired with dewy, glowing skin.
This is one we don't recommend. This risky practice is when you use self-tanner to contour the face. The tan develops and semi-permanently contours the face. The challenge lies in the careful application and selecting the right shade that isn’t too warm. Plus, if you wear foundation daily, you’re likely to cover up your work. Fortunately there are plenty of incredible contouring products so you really don't need to touch the fake tan for anything other than safe tanning.
Unsure whether to choose a highlighter powder, cream, or highlighting balm? Powder matte highlighters are great for a more subtle highlight and are often preferred by those with oily skin. Contour Kit has both a shimmer highlight and a matte highlight for ultimate versatility.
Cream highlighters seamlessly illuminate the complexion and are generally preferred by those with combination or dry skin types—although if you err on the oily side you can still use cream highlighters too, it's a personal choice. Our Glow Up Highlighter is a deliciously light and modern highlighting balm suitable for all skin types and leaves a sheer, natural looking sheen. For a creamier highlighter, try using Skin Glow Stick Highlighter, for a conditioning glaze in three champagne-hued tones, or for a velvety powder finish, Skin Glow Powder Highlighter will be your go-to. For a more subtle highlighting effect, you can also try using a concealer a few shades lighter than your complexion. We love Luminous Brightening Concealer for this.
Unsure whether to choose a contour powder or cream? Well contour powder is a great everyday contouring option, perfect for beginners. You can contour with both contouring powder or a bronzer. Contouring powders tend to look slightly more natural depending on your skin tone. Bronzer also warms up the complexion.
Similar to cream highlighters, you can use a cream concealer a few shades deeper than your natural skin tone to contour. Test both cool and warm shades until you find the one that’s best for you. You can also contour using a darker blush shade like our Cream Blush in Warmth. If you have the perfect contour shade but it's a powder and you want it to act more like a cream or a balm, add a little Barrier Balm to the back of your hand and mix with your powder.
Face shapes, facial features and bone structures vary, and this will determine a customized contour for every person.
Diamond faces are widest at the temples. Contour the lower half of the cheeks to draw attention to the center of the face and create a slimmer appearance.
Heart shaped faces have wide cheeks and forehead with a pointed chin. Deepen the outer edges of the forehead, focusing on the left and right sides instead of the center. Highlight the center of the face, but go light on the forehead.
Oblong faces are longer than they are wide. Instead of contouring the sides of the face, add contour to the top and bottom: the hairline and just below the chin.
Oval faces are well balanced. Go light on the contour, focusing just below the cheekbones, and let the highlighter do most of the work. Highlight the center of the forehead, under the eyes and just below your contour.
Round faces are as long as they are wide, with the cheeks being the widest feature. The goal is to slim your features, so take your contour along the outermost sides of your face from hairline, to temples, to jawline.
Square faces are just about as long as they are wide and are often angular. Contour like a round face shape, along the outermost sides of the face, but focus on the upper and lower corners of the face to round out a squared off hairline and jawline.
Contouring by face shape should only be a guide to creating a flattering look. Try a few different techniques until you find a look you love. Regardless of face shape, there are a few easy tips everyone should follow:
Ultimately contouring and highlighting is all about personal choice rather than trends. Depending on your mood, the occasion, and the look you're going for, mix and match products and techniques for a look that's truly you.