“What kind of paint should I get?” There is no one answer to this question because there are many different situations that would need to be considered, along with personal preferences. Anyone who has ever walked into a paint store or paint department of a home improvement store can easily become overwhelmed by the sheer number of options. But if you understand what all those options are, your decision will become easier. This article explores some of the decisions you will need to make when selecting the type of paint to use, including interior versus exterior exposure, gloss level, color, the need for a primer, and oil (solvent borne) versus latex (waterborne) formulations.
Interior versus Exterior
One of the easiest but arguably the most important factors in selecting a paint is whether it will be used to protect interior or exterior surfaces, since those represent very different environments. Paints formulated for exterior use will contain raw materials designed to combat what mother nature produces year after year, such as sunlight, rain, ice and snow, and temperature fluctuations. Interior paint formulations do not have the same raw materials as exterior paints. They may look and apply the same, but they are very different and perform differently once in service. Exterior formulations will work on the interior, but not vice-versa, so the first question that needs to be answered is “Interior or Exterior?”
Gloss
The second attribute to consider is the gloss, or sheen level (the terms “gloss” and “sheen” are used interchangeably). Gloss is indicated by how much a paint surface scatters light that hits it. Low gloss paints scatter light very well, which gives them a dull or flat appearance. High gloss paints reflect more light (instead of scattering it) and can appear shiny depending on the amount of available light. Common gloss levels include:
Not every brand and product is available in all six gloss levels and some paint manufacturers use different terminology. It is important to recognize that there is no industry standard that establishes minimum/maximum gloss values for each of the levels. For example, each company may have different gloss level ranges for “eggshell” so two different brands of an eggshell finish paint may look different after they dry. To minimize variations, choose a manufacturer, product, and gloss level and stay with that product as much as possible, especially if you are painting different surfaces in the same space.
Higher gloss paints tend to be “shiny” and can cause glare. They also exaggerate any imperfections on the wall surface, so they are frequently avoided in spaces like family rooms or living rooms. However, gloss finishes tend to be more durable and easier to clean, which makes them ideal for rooms that experience a lot of moisture or stains like a bathroom or a kitchen. In addition to being more durable, glossy finishes draw the eye, which makes them a good choice for trim, door frames, cabinets, or other similar features in a space. “Flat” finishes however are at the other end of the spectrum. These paints tend to be best for bedrooms and other low-traffic rooms, as well as ceilings. Low gloss paints will “hide” many imperfections like bumps, dents, and cracks. Although they may be more visually appealing than gloss finishes, they are frequently softer and rougher than higher gloss paints (due to pigment load and fineness of grind), so they are less durable and harder to clean.
Fortunately, there are more than just two choices when it comes to gloss level. The intermediate levels (eggshell, satin, and semi-gloss) allow you to customize the finish you desire. Eggshell and satin finishes are very popular because they look good in many situations and have good durability. The bottom line is that the selection of gloss level is a personal preference. Parents with young children, for example, may consider using higher gloss paints in certain areas that need to stand up to more abuse. Or a homeowner with older walls that show some wear or minor damage may opt for a less glossy paint to help hide imperfections. Most retail paint stores/departments have examples of the various gloss levels to help you decide what is right for your project, but keep in mind that color selection can also have a visual effect on perceived gloss; that is, darker colors will frequently appear more glossy than pastel colors of the same gloss level. Gloss measurement and retention is described in a 2017 KTA University article, “Measuring Gloss Retention in the Coatings Industry.”
Color
Preferences vary considerably when it comes to what color to use. And every major paint manufacturer has literally hundreds of colors and shades to choose from. Simply choosing a color at the store and assuming it will look the same in the space or surface you intend to paint can lead to disappointment and even repainting. Color selection goes well beyond preference. Many colors will look different in different light. For example, fluorescent lights, soft or clear incandescent bulbs, LED lightbulbs and light/lamp shades will all create a different color appearance in interior spaces. Even natural sunlight can look different depending on the degree of cloud cover or the time of day. Matching existing colors can also be challenging. It is possible to have two objects that appear to be the same color in one type of light look different under another type of light. Gloss level (described earlier) can also affect how a color appears. High gloss finishes frequently make a color look slightly darker, while flat finishes can make a color appear slightly lighter. To reduce the risk of disappointment after application, test the color in different places in the actual space/on the surface you plan to paint. If using paint color swatches, tape several to vertical locations or move them around often and look at them at different times of day, especially when there is natural light coming into the space through windows. Some retailers will tint small samples of the paint that will cover an area larger that a color swatch will, to get a more realistic indication of what it will look like.
Finally, when selecting a color, it is important to consider what you will be painting over. If the surface is already painted an even coat of new paint is important, but you will also need to completely cover the color of the existing paint so it doesn’t show through. Most applications will require at least two coats to hide what lies beneath, despite claims of “one-coat coverage.” Paint technology is constantly advancing, and more and more manufacturers are formulating paints that claim to cover with just one coat. These paints do have substantially better coverage capability but are often more expensive. Darker, deeper colors are notoriously difficult to cover and may require three coats, whereas lighter colors require fewer coats to achieve hiding. The same is true for new paint too. Light colored paint has more white pigment in it, so it is better at hiding the colors beneath it. When painting over a color that might be difficult to hide, consider using a primer first, which leads us into our next topic: Primers.
Primers
Associated with the question of which paint to use is whether a primer is needed. Applying a primer may seem to some like a lot of extra time, effort, and money for essentially no aesthetic benefit, and sometimes primers are not needed. However, in many cases a single coat of primer can save time and money with fewer coats of the more expensive finish coats. It is beneficial to understand what a primer does in determining if one is necessary. Primer is essentially paint that is intended to be covered by another layer of paint, so primers are flat (no gloss), highly pigmented, and often white. They are designed specifically to do a few things well.
A good primer will adhere to clean surfaces and provide a good foundation for the finish coat(s). If the existing paint has defects but is well adhered, a primer will help to hide some of those defects. Very rough or porous surfaces (for example, new unpainted drywall, wood, or masonry) require more paint to cover because the paint will penetrate or soak into the softer substrates or will need to fill the imperfections to provide a sealed/smoother surface for the topcoats. Many paints have difficulty adhering to smooth, glossy surfaces. A primer can be useful in this situation too because it is designed to adhere well and provide a fresh surface for the topcoat to “grip” onto. Glossy surfaces should be sanded before applying a primer or finish coat. Note that older paints may contain lead so proper personal protective equipment should be worn when sanding. LeadCheck swabs are available from various retailers to determine the presence of lead in paint.
Primers also help with hiding. As described earlier, certain existing colors can be difficult to hide. Primers are typically less expensive than finish coats so one primer coat and one finish coat can be less expensive than two finish coats. Some primers provide “stain blocking,” which means they are specifically designed to prevent existing stains from bleeding through the newly applied paint.
A primer may not be necessary if none of these conditions are present. That is, if the existing paint color is neutral you can often hide it without a primer. If the new color is similar to the old color, it will be easier to hide. If you have a clean, nonporous surface that isn’t too glossy, the adhesion of the finish coat may be fine without a primer. Or if there is localized staining or damaged spots, consider priming only those areas (i.e., spot prime) instead of the entire surface. Note that some brands will promote “paint and primer in one” or “self-priming.” This does not mean there is primer in the paint, but rather they contain greater amounts of good quality hiding pigments and are thicker in their consistency (known as viscosity). They are more expensive but may save considerable labor costs.
Oil-Based or Water-Based
Paint is made up of resins, pigments, and additives suspended in a carrier or solvent. The solvent evaporates as the paint dries, leaving behind the resin, pigment, and additives. The carrier or solvent can be water, or one or more organic solvents. Acrylic latex paints often use water and coalescing solvents, while oil-based paints (also known as alkyds) often use a hydrocarbon solvent such as mineral spirits to reduce the viscosity of the paint and assist with flow-out/leveling.
In the past almost all paint was oil-based. The combination of linseed oil, lead, and mineral spirits created an outstanding paint that protected a variety of surfaces for decades. Now water-based latex technology is dominant for both interior and exterior applications. Aside from the elimination of lead from consumer paint formulations, the primary reason for moving from oil to waterborne formulations is the need to reduce ozone-producing chemicals in the atmosphere. When most hydrocarbon solvents evaporate into the air, they photochemically react with sunlight and produce air pollutants that can affect public health. These are called volatile organic compounds, or VOCs. Water-based paint technology does not produce these air pollutants. As countries around the world impose stricter air quality regulations, water-based coatings (both architectural and industrial/marine) will become more commonplace.
Oil-based paints do have a few advantages over waterborne technology. When dry, they form a very hard, durable, water-resistant surface and can also have a very glossy finish. They are best for surfaces subject to mechanical or abrasion damage, like doors and trim. They can also be useful in high moisture producing spaces like bathrooms. Some claim oil-based paint is easier to apply because it goes on smoothly and evenly and levels better than water-based paint, reducing brush marks. They can also be applied at colder temperatures than water-based paint. It is not recommended to apply water-based paint when the temperature is below 50°F or is expected to fall below 50°F before the coalescence (drying) process is complete.
The solvents in oil-based paint can be hazardous and should only be used in well-ventilated areas. These paints require solvent like mineral spirits for clean-up (soap and water will not work) and these petroleum-based solvents are flammable. Although very durable, oil-based paint will deteriorate over time and become brittle, then crack or peel since the oxidation process used to cure the resin doesn’t stop until the paint is fully oxidized, which occurs over many years. Like most paints their color fades, and they will chalk when exposed to UV radiation from the sun.
Water-based paints have many advantages over oil-based paints. They have little to no adverse impact on humans or the environment. They are easier to clean off brushes and other tools after application, (usually requiring only soapy water) and they are readily available (unlike oil-based paints, which are becoming more difficult to source from consumer retailers). Provided they are not applied when it is excessively humid or cold, latex paints dry much faster than oil-based paints. While they generally aren’t as durable as oil-based paint, water-based paints have greater resistance to sunlight (when formulated for exterior use). Waterborne technology is not restricted to residential/commercial use. Caltrans has been using water-based paint technology on their highway bridges for several years, and many southern state transportation agencies like NC DOT started using waterborne finish coats years ago.
“What kind of paint should I get?” As you now know, there is no one answer to this question because there are so many considerations, including personal preferences. Decisions always become easier when you understand your options versus just knowing what they are. This article explored some of the decisions you may need to make when selecting the type of paint to use.
If you are interested in learning how to paint, it is essential you have at least a solid knowledge of the painting supplies available to you and how to use them. To assist you, I have prepared this guide to painting supplies which is set out as follows:
Since painting originated, there have been vast improvements in the supplies used.
The great masters of painting did not have access to the advanced technology and quality of the supplies available today. They also did not have any secret supplies which allowed them to create such masterpieces. The masters used standard supplies (by current standards) with great skill.
If you are just starting out in painting, you should consider purchasing high-quality basic supplies and learn how to use them well.
There are many specialty tools that you should not even consider until you are more advanced, if at all. Do not fall into the trap that you must know how to use every material available.
As a beginner, it can be very overwhelming deciding what paint brushes to purchase, so I would recommend purchasing a starter brush set as this will have all the essentials. You can then get a feel for what brushes you naturally prefer to use.
Paint brushes come in many different bristles and shapes. Some brushes are great all-rounders which you can use for most situations, whilst others are more of a specialty brush (such as the fan brush which is great for painting grass and trees).
Below is a summary of the different brush bristles and shapes:
Hog Bristle Brushes are stiff, springy and economical. These brushes are well suited for oil painting given their durability and stiffness.
Sable Bristle Brushes are not actually made from sable hair but rather from the tail of a species of mink (a member of the weasel family) found in North-Eastern China and Siberia. Sable bristle brushes are extremely fine, springy and hold lots of water, making them perfect for watercolor painting or fine oil / acrylic painting. Sable bristle brushes are expensive and I would not recommend starting with these brushes as a complete beginner due to the cost (unless you are rich, in which case you can do whatever you want).
Synthetic Brushes are economical and versatile options for all painting mediums. Most synthetic brush manufacturers will combine synthetic bristles with animal bristles to make for an economical yet reasonable quality paintbrush. However, please note cheap synthetic brushes are often not durable and will lose shape quickly.
Round brushes have a large belly and a long tapered end. They are extremely versatile and can be used for long, bold strokes and detail work.
A round brush made with sable hair comes to a very fine tip and can be used for delicate brushwork.
Filbert brushes are a personal favorite due to their versatility. It is somewhere between a round and flat brush. The curved tip allows for soft brushwork and blending. I use the filbert brush for any general brushwork.
Flat brushes have a flat tip and can be used to make long, consistent strokes or for line work. Flat brushes are great for blocking in solid shapes of color (i.e roads, fences, buildings, etc).
Fan brushes I find to be more of a specialty brush. They have a range of special uses, such as painting the leaves on trees or adding texture to grass or rocks. Fan brushes are essential for all landscape painters, but not so much for portrait painters.
There is no industry standard for brush sizes, so it is best to get familiar with one brand.
It is important to have a range of large, medium and small brushes.
I heard a saying once along the lines of “begin your painting with a broom and finish with a toothpick”. This simply means start a painting with your largest brush and, as you get more detailed, bring out the smaller brushes.
It is often recommended that you take the largest brush you feel comfortable with, then use one size up from that. The benefits of starting with large brushes include:
Personally, I use paint brushes as follows:
There are three main types of paint – oil, acrylic and watercolor. For the purpose of this guide, we will just be discussing oil and acrylic paints.
Oil and acrylic paint is essentially ground pigment bound together using some form of binder.
When buying paint, you have to answer these questions:
The brand is not that important. Experiment with different brands and get a feel for which you prefer.
The quality of the paint is a much more important decision. You generally have two choices – student or artist quality.
As a general rule, I suggest always using artist quality. It does make a noticeable difference. However, outside of this, you do not need to buy the most premium quality handmade paints of the finest pigments. You will probably not notice much difference between these very expensive premium paints and the standard artist-quality paints available at your art store.
Student quality paints are generally made for schools and children, many of which may not even enjoy painting.
The third question is what colors to buy. This is a tricky one, as there are so many fantastic colors to choose from. When starting out, you will probably want to grab every color to give you as many options as possible. However, once your knowledge of color theory and mixing develops, your color palette will probably reduce.
The bare minimum color palette you should have is the primary colors (yellow, red and blue) plus white. Black is optional, as you can mix a decent black by combining all three primary colors or blue and raw umber.
Here is a versatile color palette that would be great for any beginner:
Canvas is the most widely used material to paint on. When buying canvas you need to ensure the canvas has already been primed (unless you plan on priming it yourself). By primed, I mean ready to paint on.
You can prime a canvas using gesso, which is similar to a white acrylic paint, but it is generally thinner and dries harder.
The purpose of gesso is to stop paint from sinking into the canvas weave which would quickly deteriorate the canvas and provide a responsive surface to paint on.
There are many different types of primed canvas so I will try and keep this simple. If your budget allows, you should invest in artist-quality canvas, rather than student quality. The difference is noticeable.
You will have the choice of stretched canvas panels, which are generally ready to hang and canvas boards, which are inexpensive but not recommended for exhibition works.
Stretched canvas panels come as deep or thin-edged. Deep-edged gives a more modern appearance and is great if you do not intend on framing your painting. The thin-edged stretched canvas is more suitable if you plan on framing your painting.
In relation to what size of canvas you should paint on, that is really up to personal preference and the purpose of painting. For exhibition pieces, you may want to paint on a larger canvas so it has more impact. If you are just practicing, then a smaller canvas may be more suitable.
I wrote more about canvas in this post.
An easel is a wooden or metal stand used for holding a canvas, board or panel. There are many different types of easels, with varying levels of stability and mobility.
These are the different types of easels available:
A- Frame – a three-legged easel that is economical and portable, however, it lacks in stability.
H Frame Easel – your standard studio easel. The H Frame Easel is sturdy but lacks portability.
Giant Easel – basically a larger version of the H Frame Easel, used for large-scale studio works.
Convertible Easel – a versatile easel that converts between a standard upright easel and a horizontal, tabletop easel.
Single Mast Easel – the most basic and affordable type of easel. However, it is also the least stable.
Tabletop Easel – great if you prefer to work at a desk.
French Easel – the built-in storage makes the French Easel a favorable choice for plein air painters.
Display Easel – merely for ‘displaying’ your finished works. This easel is not suitable for painting on.
Children’s Easel – an easel specifically built for children.
The Artist in his Studio, Rembrandt, Circa 1626-28The palette is what you use to hold and mix your paint. The palette comes in many different forms, including your traditional wooden palettes, disposable palettes and standing palettes.
If you are just starting out, I suggest you give the toned disposable palettes a try. They are economical and make cleaning up a breeze.
These supplies are for oil painters only.
Oil painting is a fine balance between solvent, which thins the paint and oil medium, which fattens the paint.
A general rule in oil painting is to paint fat over lean, which means the later layers of paint must contain more fat (oil) than the earlier layers. This is to avoid the paint cracking.
In practice, oil painters will often start with very thinned paint using lots of solvent. This first layer is almost nothing more than a wash of color. For each subsequent layer, more oil and less solvent is added to the paint.
Most beginner artists think palette knives are just there to mix your paints. But they can be a great tool in your arsenal if used correctly. Some artists solely use palette knives to create rigid, broken color paintings. Palette knives are also much easier to clean and can really speed up painting times.
You can read more about using the palette knife in this blog post.
Well, there you have it, a guide through all the basic painting supplies to get you started. Here are a few key things to note from this post:
You might be interested in my Painting Academy course. I’ll walk you through the time-tested fundamentals of painting. It’s perfect for absolute beginner to intermediate painters.
I appreciate you taking the time to read this post and I hope you found it helpful. Feel free to share it with friends.
Happy painting!
Dan Scott
Draw Paint Academy
About | Supply List | Featured Posts | Products
Pin
258
268
Shares